How to Grow Lavender: Complete Guide

• •Plant lavender as a young nursery plant in spring, after the soil warms to at least 60°F (15°C) and frost danger has passed.
• •In milder zones 7 to 9 you can also plant in fall using larger, more established plants.
• •In zone 5 and colder, container planting lets you bring the plant indoors for winter.

📅 View the full zone-by-zone planting guide

1. 1

   Start with young plants or cuttings

   • •Lavender seed is slow and erratic, taking up to three months to germinate, so most gardeners buy small nursery plants or root softwood cuttings after bloom.
   • •To take a cutting, choose a side shoot with no bud, cut low near the root, strip the lower 2 inches of leaves, and insert it into gritty potting mix.
   • •Roots appear in about 3 weeks, after which you pot the young plant on.
2. 2

   Prepare a sharply drained, sunny site

   • •Pick the hottest, sunniest spot in the garden and improve drainage before planting.
   • •In heavy clay, dig in compost, coarse sand, and grit, or build a raised bed and mound the soil slightly.
   • •Lavender prefers neutral to alkaline ground; if your soil is very acid, a dusting of lime works wonders.
   • •Wet feet, not cold, is what kills English lavender.
3. 3

   Space plants 2–3 feet apart, crown high

   • •Set plants 2 to 3 feet apart so the mature 2- to 3-foot mound has room for air to move through.
   • •Plant them at the same depth they grew in their pots, or even slightly high so the crown sits just above the surrounding soil.
   • •Water in well once, then let the soil dry between waterings. Keep mulch away from the crown.
4. 4

   Water sparingly and gravel-mulch

   • •Water new plants once or twice a week until established, then cut back dramatically: mature shrubs usually need water only every 2 to 3 weeks until buds form.
   • •A mulch of pea gravel or crushed rock around the plant reflects warmth, suppresses weeds, and keeps the crown dry—far better than wood mulch, which holds moisture against the stems.
5. 5

   Prune lightly after bloom and protect in winter

   • •Once flowers fade, shear the plant back by about one third into the green foliage to keep it dense and rounded.
   • •Never cut into bare old wood, which rarely resprouts.
   • •In cold zones, after the ground freezes, tuck evergreen boughs around the plant to shield it from wet snow and drying winds, and grow tender spots in pots you can move indoors.

• Choose a large pot with perfect drainage:
  • •Lavender grows a wide root ball and needs room.
  • •Use a pot at least 12 to 16 inches across with multiple drainage holes; terra cotta dries evenly and suits the plant's droughty nature.
• Plant in a gritty, alkaline mix:
  • •Blend potting soil with coarse sand, perlite, and a little lime, or use a cactus-and-succulent mix. Heavy peat mixes stay too wet and invite root rot.
  • •The grittier, the better.
• Top-dress with gravel:
  • •A layer of pea gravel on the soil surface keeps the crown dry, reflects warmth, and looks clean.
  • •It also prevents soil from splashing onto the silver foliage when you water.
• Grow in the hottest, sunniest spot:
  • •Set the pot where it receives 6 to 8 hours of direct sun, such as a hot patio or steps.
  • •Rotate weekly so all sides bloom evenly; shade makes potted lavender leggy and sparse.
• Overwinter pots bright and cool:
  • •Before frost, move the pot to a bright, cool room or unheated sunporch.
  • •Water sparingly while dormant, keep the crown dry, and skip fertilizer until spring, when it returns outdoors.

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  Shear by one third after bloom

  • •Once the summer flowers fade, cut the whole bush back by about one third into the green foliage.
  • •This prevents a woody, open center and triggers fresh, dense growth for next year.
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  Shape in spring as growth emerges

  • •When new green leaves appear at the base in spring, trim the plant into a neat rounded mound.
  • •This removes winter-damaged tips and sets the shape for the coming season.
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  Never cut into bare old wood

  • •Lavender rarely resprouts from leafless brown stems. Always cut above green leafy growth.
  • •If a branch is fully bare, remove it at the base rather than hoping it will regrow.
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  Harvest flower stems as you deadhead

  • •Cutting stems for drying doubles as pruning. Take long stems once half the buds open, and keep the bush balanced by harvesting from all sides.
  • •Regular harvest keeps plants compact.

• •Snip flower stems when about half the buds have opened, cutting as long a stem as you like. Harvest in the morning when oils are most concentrated.
• •Hang bundles in a cool, dark, airy place to dry, then strip the blooms and store in sealed jars.
• •The dried flowers scent sachets, potpourri, and linen closets.